It’s not on my list currently.

Because apparently every flashlight needs strobe. It’s there since they were made with microcontrollers. Someone might find a purpose for it eventually. But it’s fine as long as you don’t have to cycle through strobe every time.

Thanks. In the D4v2, the aux led locators use the cpu idle mode pulldowns (idr the exact name) so they use very little battery power, but the brightness isn’t adjustable.

Yeah, the driver of the TS10 does it exactly the same. It’s how Anduril works.

Do you know of a current measurement or runtime test for the aux leds on the TS10?

I’ve seen one on reddit a while ago, but can’t find it right now. It’s a little tricky to do because of the tube design.

It looks like this light has a tail clicky?

It has an electronic tail switch, just like the regular TS10.

Do you know what CPU it uses?

t1616, just like the regular TS10.

Where is the lanyard hole? I don’t see it in the photos, though I see an included lanyard mentioned.

It doesn’t have a hole in the flashlight, just in the clip.

Too bad about the low CRI led. I’d prefer a floodier beam but that depends on the user.

Then get the regular TS10 that is available since 2022. Floody and high CRI.

Should there be any issue with using a USB-rechargeable 14500 in the TS10?

I use USB-C rechargeable batteries from Manker and Acebeam in all of my TS10.

Is it possible to leave the aux leds on with minimal battery drain as locator lights, like some Hanklights can?

Of course, at least in low brightness. The high level drains the battery in just a few days.

Just responding to the comment and it does not include affiliate links. 😉

It’s available on Amazon for around $30 / 33€ during Black Friday. Use the code NVE875YS to get an extra discount!

Wurkkos HD01 UV on Amazon US
Wurkkos HD01 UV on Amazon DE

You can also get it directly from www.wurkkos.com.

🤣

Actually I do exactly this from time to time because it makes people laugh.

… alkaleak but fairly new …

Spot the mistake.

So I guess the circuit is blown

Unlikely. How could it blow just because the battery runs out of power? It’s a long way from the negative terminal to the driver. The negative spring is probably corroded. Clean it and check continuity with the body with a multimeter.

What’s the “clone of the FC11” you’re talking about? Do you have a link?

Nice idea! A large portion of the heat is dissipated by the heatpipe on the backside anyway.

You can get the FC11 (clone) for about $10 (about 10€) with a battery

The FC11 is not a clone, it is the predecessor of the FC11C with a less efficient driver. The FC11C is worth the upgrade, if you want longer and better regulated runtime.

I have the standard black one for over 2 years

That’s the old FC11 with FET driver, not the new FC11C with higher efficiency buck driver, that was released in June.

It also works with AA, except that yours is broken. ;)

There’s also the Emisar D3AA that works with AA.

One hour of runtime is more than enough for a single mode keychain light IMHO. Don’t think skilhunt will expand in that direction.

I made my own very minimalistic one, but it works great for all kind of flashlights:

https://www.printables.com/model/307059-flashlight-bicycle-mount

Yes, the first version came with a single color and red was one of them. The second version has RGB aux, but can be configured to red, so you’ll get the same result.

but they all flash the auxiliary after they turn off

That is called “post-off voltage display” and it can be turned off. Make sure to have Advanced UI active (10H). Enter batt-check mode (3C), enter the battery config menu via 7H and release the button after the second flash. Now you can click how many seconds post-off voltage should be shown or do nothing to disable it.

It’s mentioned several times in the review that the battery is built-in. Not sure what you mean with “omitted from the review”.

Basically there are two common charging systems:

• Armytek like, where you have to loosen the tailcap to charge the battery. When tightened, the terminals are shorted, so it’s absolutely safe. When loosened, they are in series with the battery, but the driver limits the current. So the current would be whatever the flashlight draws in regular use - while it’s off just a few microamps.

• Olight or Skilhunt like, where the charging terminals are separate from the normal circuit. It needs some kind of protection. Either a clever circuit using a FET, a diode or something like a polyfuse that disconnects the terminal if the current gets too high. These type is prone to leakage, for example 2mA for many Olight or much higher current for most Skilhunt. These methods are safe for short circuit situations (although a short pulse of current could cause sparks), but canddrain the battery if the terminals are bridged with some resistance. Depending on the water/mud properties it could pass some current, too little to trigger the protection, but enough to drain the batteries over a longer duration.

It’s built-in. The back cover is secured with four screws, so I assume you could replace the battery once it’s dead. But the seal didn’t want to release the cover without force, so I stopped to not damage it prematurely.

With some imagination the lanyard could be seen as a ring.

On the other hand, I just tried to stab myself and it didn’t hurt. Definitely no real kunai.